Thoroughbred Diesel is working hard to bring you the best diesel truck videos on the planet! This would of in course include videos from one of our most popular products, VP44 injection pumps. Check out our VP44 videos below.

VP44 Fuel Injection Pump Warranty Explained | Which Pump is Best For My Truck?

click-here-to-order-button

Transcription Below

Adam:
Hey guys. Wade and Adam here today from Thoroughbred Diesel. We get a lot of questions. Every day we get this. We've specialized in VP44 for years. I mean, what? 2005, 2007, when we probably really started in VP44 is a lot. And over the years we've offered a lot of products.

Adam:
In the last couple of years, we've just started offering a one-year or 12-month pump or a two-year, a 24-month pump. And the biggest question is, what's the difference between those two pumps? So, I wanted to bring in Wade and just talk about the difference between those two pumps and go over maybe why you should look at one over the other, or different situations where one might be. So, Wade, do you care to maybe just start off and let's answer that question? What is different between a 24-month pump and a one-year pump?

Wade:
Well, a one-year pump, let's talk about it first. This is obviously a one-year warranty pump. Now, both of these pumps have all of the necessary mechanical upgrades done to them inside that get them up to VP44 speed. All of the required upgrades and updates that are needed inside the pump mechanically, head [router 00:01:09], the [bushing 00:01:12] inside the timing sleeve.

Wade:
Now, one of the biggest things between the one-year and the two-year pump is the re-manufactured electronics versus the new electronics on the two-year pump. The one-year pump has a re-manufactured PSG or computer. This is the brains of the entire VP44 operation. Now, by re-manufacturing, these are professionally re-manufactured PSG.

Wade:
This pump is test standard, the exact same way as our two-year offering is. The two-year offering and the one-year offering both get test standard on qualified testings. They're run for an extended length of time. They both go through the same qualification standards.

Wade:
Now, our two-year pump is our Cadillac model or our creme de la creme. This has a brand new out-of-the-box PSG on it. It has never been on a truck. It has only been on a test stand and then shipped directly to your home. Now, I guess really we will probably want to talk about the situations. Why would you want a one-year pump versus a two-year?

Adam:
Well, let's go into the PSG just a little bit more. We talked about this one is a re-manufactured PSG or reused, however you want to use it. The testing, just to clarify on this one so that you don't think you're getting something that's just junk. This goes through a five heat cycles. Is that even right? I think it's five.

Wade:
It'll run four to five hours on the testing.

Adam:
And it goes through several heat cycles so that you get testing on it. For those of you backstory, heat is a big issue as to why this PSG fail. So, that's why that is an important tit-bit of information to have. So, let's go into the situations where you might want a 24-month pump over a a one-year pump or vice versa.

Wade:
It's really not any secret that these trucks now are... The youngest one out of all of them are 15 years old. So, really, the 1998 and a half are 19 years old.

Adam:
They're not a spring chicken anymore.

Wade:
They're not a spring chicken anymore. Sometimes you're just done with the truck. If you've put several VP44s on the truck, it's probably left a bad taste in your mouth. We hope that you've come to us and we've given you some education on why the VP44s on them failed, but some guys, you know what? That's it. They're done with it. They're going to get the truck back up and running, get it up on stable ground. They're going to put it in somebody else's driveway.

Adam:
Or it's a farm truck or something like that, that you're not going to be stranded on the side of a road. You might just be up in a field somewhere. There's different...

Wade:
Low-cost alternatives, honestly. There's sometimes that low-cost alternative is really the only means that people have of getting their vehicle back up and running. That's really honestly our one-year pump is the one of the products that we're very proud of because of the quality that actually goes into the pump, but that's not to take away from the two-year pump. If you've got a truck or if you're a young man and you just got a VP truck and you know you're going to be in that seat for a little while, this is the pump for you. This is-

Adam:
We would obviously love for everyone to buy a two-year pump.

Wade:
Absolutely.

Adam:
The reliability or I guess the gamble just isn't quite there. I don't know if gamble is even the right word, but it's less of a risk with a two-year pump. But we also understand that some people are in truck down situations and have to get their truck up and running.

Adam:
And we want them to not have to... We don't want someone to not be able to do something because of it's just way too expensive. So, we still want to offer this lower cost alternative. No, it's not a huge savings but it is there in those situations where you have to have it.

Wade:
We go into our two-year pump just a little bit more. So, I think we've said a lot for our one-year pump and given you a good explanation on it. And we want to know that we're not selling you crap. We're selling you a product that we're very, very proud of.

Wade:
Our two-year pump is a masterpiece, really. All new electronics on this. Again, just a recap, all new electronics on this pump, all necessary updates on it. This is a fit and finish like you're not going to find in any other fuel injection component for these model trucks.

Wade:
This is my choice. This is what I want on a vehicle that I'm going to be keeping in my driveway for a few years. Just a really, really good product and we are very, very proud of the two-year warranty program. Is peace of mind that you're buying as well. If you have a problem with this pump, and it is a workmanship problem, we are going to stand behind the pump 100%.

Adam:
I like the peace of mind. That's a good way to word that.

Wade:
It's peace of mind. The cost difference between the two pumps is not great. If you've got the means to be able to go ahead and put it in to your pump, put it into your pump. Absolutely.

Adam:
So, a little caveat, at the end of this video, and we do this just because VP44, like we said, we're 10 years into this program now and it's changed a lot.

Wade:
It has.

Adam:
Some things about these pumps that you're looking at may change over the course of time. Right now the two-year pump does come out painted black. That may be different later on down the line, the screws...

Adam:
Just so that if you guys are watching this video and it's no longer 2017, you can know that there may be some differences, but the quality that we're going to offer, we're going to strive to continue that.

Wade:
The quality we're going to offer, the testing procedures are always going to be there. And the differentiating factor between the two pumps is always going to be new electronics versus re-manufactured electronics. Absolutely.

Adam:
Perfect. Anything else you want to say about them?

Wade:
I sure doubt. This is again, and I've said this a couple of times, this is really a program that we're proud of. VP44s and that sector of the market, the 98 and a half to ['02 00:06:53] trucks has really been the niche that Thoroughbred has become known for.

Wade:
We strive on this. Honestly, this is probably about 70% of the tech calls that we take inside the building are about VP44 trucks. We just want to make sure that we keep you educated. Hopefully, we don't have to sell you a VP44 but when we do have to sell you a VP44, if you do have a failure, we've got a quality product for you.

Adam:
So, if you have any questions, guys, obviously the comments below if you're on YouTube or Facebook, wherever you happen to be watching this video. If you want to call in and ask us, we've got guys ready to answer the phone and help you get the right pump for your situation.

Wade:
We have a completely dedicated department for VP44 teching stuff.

Adam:
We sure do. So, give us a call. Thanks for watching. We'll see you next time.

Wade:
Thank you.

 

Thoroughbred Diesel VP44 Core Return Process | VP44 Cores Explained​

click-here-to-order-button

Transcription Below

Wade:
Hi, I'm Wade and this is Wes, and we're Thoroughbred Diesel, and today we're going to be talking to you about the VP 44 core return process.

Wade:
If you're watching this video, chances are you bought a VP 44 from us here at Thoroughbred Diesel. We want to say that we, we very much appreciate your business. You're getting an excellent quality product. This is a , a product that we've been offering for years. Our project that we are immersed in. We try to bring you the best quality VP 44 on the market for the best pricing.

Wade:
So we have a lot of questions about the core return process. We pay for the core return process for you customers that are in the lower 48 states. Unfortunately, our Alaska and Hawaii customers, core return shipment is going to be on you, but the good thing about that is that is you can use whatever courier service that you want to to get it back to us, whatever's most cost effective for you.

Wade:
So lower 48 states, we pay for the return shipping.

Wade:
Wes is our core manager. He takes care of all of the cores. He set up our core process, our core program, all of it is actually was actually done by Wes and fine tuned by him.

Wade:
So I brought him in today because this is his baby and he's going to talk to you just a little bit about it.

Wade:
So what we want to talk about first with the VP 44s is we want to talk about what you're actually going to receive when you receive the pump. So I'm going to talk a little bit about that now.

Wade:
With our one year pump and our two year pump, both of them, we're just going to talk about what you're going to be receiving.

Wade:
So inside of the box, and I'm going to go ahead and let you look at this. Inside of the box is obviously it's going to be our VP 44 pump, the seals that you're going to need for the fuel line, and then the oil seal that's on the snout of the VP 44 is actually in the spark drive, try not to block out Wes there.

Wade:
All of that is inside of this bag. This bag is a thick meal plastic. When you return your core, we actually want the core returned in this bag. Wrap it up real good so you don't have any fuel leakage. Make sure you drain the fuel from it. If you don't drain the fuel from it, it's going to get caught at UPS, and they're going to quarantine it because you got wet spots on the box.

Wade:
So turn your core upside down, turn on its side, let the fuel leak out of it before you put it in this bag.

Wade:
Now inside the box, you're also going to receive a little note that's going to tell you, "Hey, we need you return your return valve with your VP 44."

Wade:
Now, the return valve can go inside the bag with the VP 44. That's no problem. That works just fine.

Wade:
Now let's talk about the boxing, the packaging of the VP 44.

Wade:
Making sure that the VP 44 gets to you safely is our number one top priority. So these boxes, we have incorporated into our shipment. They're going to have these cardboard wedges on each side of them for lack of a better term, and there's cutouts inside of those inside of those cardboard sheets, and that's actually where the VP 44 is going to rest.

Wade:
There's a single cut out the front of it for the snout of the pump. There's six cutouts in the back of it or two half moons there that the pump actually rides in. And When you go to put the VP 44 back in, what I'll do is just tip this over.

Wade:
When you go to tip that over, you'll see that these are actually made for the pump to ride inside of there. So when you send your core back, please utilize this inside of the packaging, and again, utilize the bag that we're sending with you, thick meal plastic. You're not going to have any leaks here.

Wade:
Very, very good package. Another thing that we do inside the box is we actually glue a piece of styrofoam in there, and what the piece of styrofoam is going to do is it's going to is it's going to protect the computer on the pump, the PSG of it. Going to make sure that that PSG arrives to you safely and securely.

Wade:
So we probably talked enough about the actual shipment of the VP 44. I'm going to let West talk to you now about how you actually receive your core return label.

Wes:
So the core return labels are emailed directly to you with the email you provided with your order. It'll be an email from UPS.

Wes:
A lot of times it goes to the junk or spam folder. It'll have the link for you to click. Just click the link, it'll take you to UPS's website.

Wes:
At that point, you can print off the label. Of course, you will have to have a printer. Just print it off and then you'll just tape it to the outside of the box, and make sure you cover your original shipping label so that way it doesn't get shipped back to you.

Wes:
And then UPS will take it. It's prepaid. They'll deliver it straight to us. When we get it in, we note your order and that's all the rest of that.

Wade:
Yep. Good to go.

Wade:
So again, make sure, like Wes was saying, make sure you check your junk folder because it does, it's generated by UPS. A lot of times your home computer is going to flag that as spam. Put it there. Make sure you look for that.

Wade:
You will get your core return label very, very soon after you make your purchase.

Wes:
It's usually the next business day after your order.

Wade:
Yep, next business day, it's already in your mail. So you've got your core return label there ready to go. Like Wes, said you got to have a printer to print the label out. No special kind of printer.It will print on regular eight and a half by 11 paper.

Wade:
You print it out, cut it out in the shape of the return label, tape it to the box. You can give it to your UPS man next time he comes to your house, or you can actually take it to a UPS store and drop it off, it'll make its way back to us no problem.

Wade:
So the core return process is pretty simple, but a lot of times, we generate an email as well that it's going to give you those directions in written format, so you can see that and look through it too.

Wade:
Let's talk about the dates, Wes. When you purchase a VP 44 pump from Thoroughbred Diesel, you actually have 14 days to get your core back to us.

Wade:
If you don't return your core back to us in that time frame, we are going to charge you the $500 for the core. Now, with that being said, that's 14 business days, but you can reach out to Wes. If you've got something happen, something's come up, you weren't able to get your pump off in time, all you got to do is call us.

Wes:
Just give us a call.

Wade:
Give us a call, let us know what the circumstances are, no problem.

Wade:
If we need to exchange that, we can. We're not really interested in your $500. We're more interested in getting the core back because we need it, because it's part of the rebuilding process.

Wade:
So you can always reach out to us. You can call and ask for me, I'm Wade, and Wes is head of the cores, and he's got a couple of guys that work under him that do this every day and we will get you squared away.

Wade:
Again, we just want to thank you for your purchase of VP 44 from Thoroughbred Diesel. You are getting a very, very fine product that is going to give you many, many years of quality service and dependable service.

Wade:
So again, thank you for your purchase and if you have any questions, give Wes and I call.

Wade:
Thank you.

 

How to Check Bosch VP44 Pump Number and the Horsepower

click-here-to-order-button

Transcription Below

Wade:
This video is to teach you how to check your Bosch number of your pump to be able to tell what type of pump you have on your truck. Now you're probably wondering why this is important. This is important for our 2000 to 2002 six speed standard shift transmission customers that have what's called the 17X or the 245 horse power pump, and also our mid range customers in agriculture applications or maybe mid range applications like deuce and a half trucks, Freightliner chassis and things of that nature. Anything that has a VP44 on it in the mid range application is considered a 16X. What you'll always want to do when you're ordering a 16X pump for a mid range guy or a six speed guys, you want to come out and check your Bosch number that is on the pump.

Wade:
This long number that starts with a 047, this is the Bosch number that denotes what type of pump is on the truck. Now you can see that this pump ends in a zero one five./ This means that this is a 15X pump, so it is for a 235 horsepower or a five speed standard shift or an automatic transmission truck. Now if you have a six speed truck, this will end in a multiple of seven, so it'll be a 014, 021, or a 028. Now also on this tag, you'll also have a your key number. Now if you're ever wondering what size key your pump has in it, most Bosch tags on this machined surface, at the bottom of the machined surface, it will actually have the key size, which is a .045, so that teaches you a little bit about the tag and what's on the tag and what it means in relation to what type of pump that you have on truck.

Wade:
Now being able to see it on the truck is a little bit different animal. When the pump is mounted on the truck, it's actually going to be mounted like this, this towards the front of the motor, the discharge line towards the back and it'll be cantered slightly like this. Now as you can see, above the plate you're going to have your inlet side and your return side line, so it's going to make it difficult for you to be able to see this machined surface. So what our camera guy's going to do is he's going to move up to where you kind of got a bird's eye view and we're going to show you how the best way to check this is with the pump on the truck. What we use is just a normal inspection mirror like you can get from any auto parts store. You'll just come in and you'll simply go underneath of the lines and you'll see that this truck actually has a remanufactured pump on it, so that's why this tag looks a little bit different. But that's a Bosch remanufactured tag. And you can see on there where it says 15X.

Adam:
I can see the tag but the camera's not focusing.

Wade:
You can actually see on that tag where it says IPRV 15X, and that tells us what this pump is. Now if you use a little bit of brake cleaner to get down there and clean the tag off before you go down with your inspection mirror, you should be able to look at that machined surface with the Bosch tag on the side of the pump and be able to tell what type of pump you have. This is a very important for us, especially with our six speed customers and our mid range customers because our cores are like for like. If you order a 17X or a 245 horsepower VP44 from us, you have to send us a 245 horsepower or 17X core back. If not, you will be charged a $250 fee for the core not being the same. So this is very important and this video is really centered around the guys that had the 2000 six speed trucks. The 2000 six speed trucks could have had either pumping, they could have had a 15X, which was a 235, which is a non high output engine, or the 245 horse power high output engine.

Wade:
If you're unable to see your Bosch tag on your engine or for some reason you can't get to it, you're going to have to pull the pump and get the pump on a workbench to be able to see exactly what type of pump that you have and again, this is especially important for our model year 2000 customers with a six speed transmission in it. That's when you could have had the 235 non-high output motor or the 245 horsepower high output motor. You can also check the Cummins tag, it's on the engine. This is on the timing cover of the engine. It's actually facing the driver's side. It's a little bit difficult to see the lighting for our shot where it's not going to be able to let us get in here for a camera shot to be able to see it. But that is where your Cummins engine data tag, and it's located on the engine timing cover, the timing gear cover and it's situated up and down.

Wade:
It's hard to see, small writing on it, so that may take you a little bit more to be able to see that one. But that's another good way. But if someone else has worked on your truck and didn't know any better, they may have put a 17X pump on here, or 245 horsepower pump on a when it really needed a 15X. So if you've got a question on what pump you got on your truck, try the mirror trick to get in there to see what the number is on it. If not, you're going to have to pull the pump and get it on your workbench and find out exactly what you have before you order. If you need anything, just let us know.

 

VP44 Dodge Cummins Injection Pump Install Part 1/2

click-here-to-order-button

Transcription Below

Wade:
One of the first things we're going to go over here is determine which pumps you got on your truck. This is for the six speed guys. Your early '98, and your later '98, early '99 trucks that have the six speeds in them, some of them are 235 horsepower. Your later '99 trucks or 245 horsepower with six speeds in them. So that basically breaks down into determine which pump you've got.

Wade:
Your 17X pumps, when they come off the truck, if you lay them out, you'll have a Bosch machine surface here, that'll have a Bosch number on it. It starts with a zero four seven. Your last three digits are what you're going to be concerned with. If it's a 17X pump, which is the 245 horsepower, it's going to be a multiple of seven, starting at 14. An early 17X pump was a zero one four, and then you had a zero two one, and a zero two eight. Those three pumps are how are we determine to see if you have a 245 horsepower 17X.

Wade:
Okay, this is your Bosch number. Starting with the zero four seven here, these last three numbers are going to tell you what type of pump this is. This is a zero zero five, so this is a 235 horsepower pump. We call those 15X. You're going to have some other pumps as well outside of the 245 horsepowers that are ag pumps, we call those a 16X. Those are special cases, they're mostly in Freightliner trucks and a few agricultural applications. But if you call us with your zero four seven number, we can tell you exactly what pump you have on your truck.

Wade:
Now when you receive a pump from us, we'll go some of the stuff that you'll be receiving with it. Our pumps have got brand new Bosch tags on them on. This tag, it'll be stamped on there whether it's a 15X or it's a 17X. You'll get a new keyway. You'll get everything new. This is a completely remanufactured pump inside and out. Everything done. You'll get a small packet of some accessories with the pump. You'll get your oil ring that goes on the front of the pump. You'll get a new overflow valve, new washers with it, and then you'll get the new washer seals that go on the supply side of the pump.

Wade:
All right, we're going to do a quick run down of what tools are needed for a VP44 install. Real quick, you got a 10, 11, 13, and 15 six point sockets, a couple of different three Ace drive extensions to get to the four bolts on the back of the pump, three quarter inch wrench, both stubby and long, hose, pliers, inspection mirror, steering wheel puller. This is what we use to pull the pump off with. The two bolts that go on either side of the pump gear, metric eight by 1.25 threads. Three-eighths drive ratchet, half inch drive ratchet. We use a pick to get the inter-cooler boot loose. We like a three-eighths drive impact, it makes the job a lot faster. This isn't necessary, but it'll make the job go a lot quicker. And a good light. Those are basically all the tools that you'll need and we're going to have a complete list on the this video for you to look at. That'll put you where you need to be. The half inch drive, two sockets you need for the pump. Nut, inch and a 16th, and a seven eighth for the alternator.

Wade:
All right, we're going to go through diagnosis on your truck first, on your VP44. One of the first things that we do when a truck comes in here at the shop is we'll get a fuel pressure reading on the truck. Your early '98 and '99 trucks are a little bit harder to check fuel pressure on, because they don't have the [Schrader 00:03:53] valve on the side of the pump like your later '99 and up to 2002 trucks do. If you can get this valve ... You could get it from your Dodge dealer, we can get it for you, however you want to do it. That'll help you to be able to check your fuel pressure on your early '98 and '99 trucks. Fuel pressure gauge, you can pick up from any Auto Parts store. That'll let you know what your lift pump pressure is. We don't like to see any lift pumps come in here with less than four PSI and wide open throttle.

Wade:
You need to check your codes on the truck as well. One of the big death codes that you have on VP44, is the two-16 code, that's a internal timing failure on the pump. Again, early '98 and '99 trucks, it's harder to check codes on them if you don't have an OBD two scanner of some sort. Your late '99 to 2002 trucks, you can cycle the key off and on three times and your codes will come up in the digital odometer on the truck. An early '98, '99 truck, you're going to have to have the code scanned by an OBD two scanner.

Wade:
One of the big things going into a VP44 install, if the truck's got a stock lift pump on it, we really try to replace the lift pump. Even if the lift pump's good, we try to replace the lift pump anyway. We're going to put a pump on it just for peace of mind, and we usually like to upgrade to an Airdog system or a FASS system. The Airdog and the FASS have lifetime warranties on them. And buying those together from us in a combo package with your VP44 is going to save you money as well. So if you got the means to do it, we definitely suggest replacing your lift pump when you do your VP44 install.

Wade:
Okay. Getting ready for our install. One of the first things that we're going to do here is we're going to line our keyway up on our old pump to where the keyway is pointed straight to 12 o'clock, before we remove the pump from the truck. That just helps us to keep from dropping the keyway down the crank case. This is a '98 truck, so you don't have your normal oil canister on this truck, like you do on your later ones, so this is just a flat cover. Normally you'd have an an oil overflow here that you'd have to take off and then just unscrew the canister. What we'll do, we'll take our inspection mirror here, and we'll look to see where our keyway is. So right now the keyway is down, just about right at five o'clock or so. And so what we do to turn the truck over, the easiest way to [inaudible 00:06:31] the truck over, is use the alternator. We'll use the alternator, we'll turn the keyway to where ti's 12 o'clock, and then we'll pull the pump.

Wade:
We've got our pump with the keyway up. We're ready to go here. First thing that we're going to remove, the four 10-metric bolts on top of the air intake, we're going to remove those. This one at the dipstick, we're going to lay the intake out of our way. The grid heater will likewise just lay right out of the way. We'll lay those over here. These three bolts here, the thirteens, and then you have an electrical connector on the bottom of the throttle positioning sensor, we're going to lay those right out of our way. That'll get us to the fuel lines and everything that we need to be at. And we'll show you just as soon as we get it broke down. And also this 11 metric here for the inter cooler boot. We'll loosen it up and get it all off.

Wade:
All right, we're getting ready to remove the pump. What we're going to do now is we're going to remove the fuel lines. You want to take your three quarter inch wrench and loosen the number one, two, and four injection line at the head, then go ahead and keep your three quarter wrench and loosen all six of the injection lines off the back of the pump. While we're in here, we're also ... Where this is a '98 the fuel canister's a little bit different on this. We're going to remove the pressure side line at the canister and at the pump, and completely take this line out. You want to disconnect both battery cables because now you're going to be working with the electrical side of the pump. We'll disconnect the wiring harness off the back of the pump and we'll get it out of our way. On the bottom of the pump, on the back side, there'll be two metric-13 bolts into the block that are attached to the pump. You really can't see them from up here, but we're going to loosen those two bolts, and we're also going to take off the nut and lock washer off the front of the pump. That'll have us ready to put the steering wheel puller on, in the gear, and pull the pump out.

 

VP44 Dodge Cummins Injection Pump Install Part 2/2

click-here-to-order-button

Transcription Below

Wade:
All right, we've got our number one, two, and four injection lines off of the pump. They fall out in one pack. Now, this is something we do here at Thoroughbred when we pull a pump, we don't pull the other three injection lines. It's not necessary to. If you feel more comfortable with it, you can, but it's a lot more steps to the process. What we do is, we leave the number three, five and six line on the truck, at the head. We don't loosen them. We just touch them ... The light's not going to stay on for us. If you just move them aside, that will let the pump clear them when you go to pushing it out.

Wade:
We've already got the bolt off the back of the pump, that bolts it to the engine block. You have four bolts holding it to the gear cover here. The pump, the bolts on the bottom can actually be a little harder to get to. These two type ones are easy, very easy. The two bottoms are a little more difficult to get to. Three-eights drive extensions, and a deep well 15 socket, and just play around with the different extensions, and eventually you'll get it. You'll have the length on it you need. The two three-eights and one deep well socket, two three eights and about a two inch extension will usually get it for you.

Wade:
Now, we're ready to put our puller on. We use a steering wheel puller, just like this. I'll show you how these go, if I can get the light stood up. All right, you've got two, metric 8 by 1.25 bolts. I'll get these started and I'll show you. All right, let's just give you a look at what you're up against. Here's the puller installed on the gear, threaded in on either side. I'm going to try to thread those, these two bolts in as much as we can. Then this we'll use to actually push the pump right out the back. We'll get it lodged out.

Wade:
Once you get the pump out, you want to make sure not to touch the shaft of it, not to mess up the orientation of where your key way is, and we'll show you about that later.

Wade:
All right, one of the biggest install mistakes that we have, one of the biggest technical questions that we have, a lot of the pump failures that we have is when customers buy the pump, they miss the key way going back with it. They don't realize that the pumps are key timed. It's very common. It happens all the time. It's compounded by the fact that the pumps have a tapered shaft, so if you miss the key way, the pump's still going to go in the gear, no problem. It's just going to smash the key.

Wade:
With that being said, we've got our old pump off of our truck. What we do is we lay them side by side on a bench, and never moving the shaft on the old pump. This helps us to line up the key ways to get ready to go back. What we'll do, our key ways are painted yellow to ease you with the installation, so you can see a little bit better.

Wade:
What we do, we just lay them right on the bench. We'll turn them to where they look like it's just about the same place as the old one is, and then we go back on the truck. Now doing this doesn't excuse you from using an inspection mirror when you go back with the pump. When we go back, we still have another person that stands outside of the gear, with an inspection mirror and a light, and that way they can visually verify that you've hit the key way in the gear.

Wade:
We've got everything now tightened up on the pump. The four bolts on the back of it are tight. The mounting bracket to the engine is tight. We've put our front nut and lock washer on, tightened it up to 125 foot pounds. What we do here at this time, before we put the front cover back on the truck, we actually pull the front nut and lock washer back off the pump, and visually inspect, one more time, that we've hit our key way correctly. Check it with a light. It's kind of hard to see here, but we always make sure we use the inspection mirror to verify 100% that they key way is in before we go any further.

Wade:
All right, we've got our pump in. We have verified that we have hit the key way in the gear. What we're going to do now is we're going to place our four nuts on the back of the pump, holding it to the timing gear cover. The two bolts in the mounting bracket on the engine, we'll put those in now while the pump's loose, like this. It will help us with the alignment on those, and then we're going to put our front nut and lock washer on the pump.

Wade:
The nut and lock washer, the lock washer can be dropped down in the gear casing. We want to take extra care when we put this on, make sure not to drop it. Torque specs, it will be a little bit harder for you to get torques on the back four, but they're at 32 foot pounds. The front nut and lock washer are 125 foot pounds. Get everything mounted up, and then we'll go back with our plumbing.

Wade:
All right we're back. We've got our four bolts on the back of the pump, tightened down, and we've got our front nut and lock washer on the pump. We're just going back and finishing up the installation. What we'll do is we'll connect all of our fuel lines on. We'll put our pressure side and return side lines on. Put our cover on the oil, and just go back with everything, your intake horn, and the whole shooting match. It's making sure that you get your wiring harnesses hooked up. It's just cut and dry from here. Once we get everything battened back down, we'll teach you guys how to, the proper way to bleed the pump.

Wade:
Okay, we've got everything installed back on our truck for our VP44 install. I'm going to give you a rundown of everything that we've done here. We've got our pump secured to the timing gear cover on the truck. All the lines reattached, the return side and the pressure side. We have our throttle position sensor, and it's electrical hook up on the bottom of it hooked up, and on the truck, all the fuel lines on and tightened. When you go back with your lines, before you put your air horn on, you want to make sure you tighten the number two injection line. It's back here. You can't get to it with the air horn on the truck, when you're going through your bleeding procedure, so make sure you tighten it.

Wade:
We like to leave number one, number three, and number four loose when we're bleeding, but tighten them at the pump. Put your air horn on. Get all your bolts in, and make sure all your gaskets underneath your grid heater are there.

Wade:
The first thing we do in our bleeding procedure, is what we'll do is we're going to fill the pump. Not everybody does this, but we do it here. We loosen the three-quarter inch overflow valve, the return bolt, and we will just bump the starter on the truck, so the lift pump runs, and that will let us fill the pump.

Wade:
Okay, we're getting ready to go through our bleeding procedure that we do here. First, we're going to loosen up the return valve on the VP44 pump, the three-quarter overflow valve. We've got it loose. We're going to bump the truck and let the lift pump run, and that's going to fill our injection pump. All right, we've got fuel there. We're going to tighten it down.

Wade:
All right, we've got our pump off the truck and we're getting ready for a core return. Here at Thoroughbred, we'll either send you your core return tag will come in the box with your pump, or we'll send you a tag through the mail, just depending on where we send the pump from. You'll get a new plastic bag to put your pump core in. One of the first things you need to do when you're getting your core ready, is you need to drain it of all fuels. We drain that, and you'll receive black plastic caps that will go over each supply side, and here at the supply and return side on the side of the pump. We put those black plastic caps back in them after we've drained all the fuel out of it.

Wade:
You'll receive a heavy duty plastic bag. Put your pump core in it. Wrap it up good, so it doesn't have any fuel leaking out of it. One of the biggest things that we ask for you to do is to return your overflow valve with your pump. We need to get those back. Each pump that we send out is actually [inaudible 00:09:30] with the overflow bowl, overflow bowl that comes with the pump.

 
More VP44 Information
 
It is recommended to bar the engine over so that the keyway on the gear is at the 12-o'clock position when installing the fuel pump. This position can be found by taking the oil fill or fuel pump gear access cap off, whichever applies, and aligning the keyway in the fuel pump gear to the top dead center (TDC) position on the front cover. In this position the line on the fuel pump gear will approximately be in the 7-o'clock position. 
 
NOTE: Doing the above will help prevent the fuel pump key from falling into the gear housing if it is loose.
 
The keyed gear and shaft allow for the fuel injection pump to be installed in any position, as long as the markings on the front gear train align and a gear has not slipped.
 
Use an evaporative cleanser (e.g., brake cleaner, isopropyl alcohol) to clean the pump shaft and gear bore.
 
NOTE: The fuel injection pump shaft has to be rotated to align with the keyway in the gear.
Install the pump. Make sure the key does not fall into the gear housing. Take care not to damage the pump mounting o-ring.
 
NOTE: When installing the fuel pump, the dowel in the back of the gear housing has to line up with the hole in the pump mounting flange, as well as the keyway in the gear. 
NOTE: Barring the engine so the keyway is at the 12-o'clock position will aid in aligning the key into the keyway.
 
Hand-tighten the four mounting nuts.
 
24 mm
Install the pump driveshaft nut and spring washer
Torque Value: 30 n.m [22 ft-lb ]
 
NOTE: Do not overtighten; this is not the final torque.
 
15 mm
Tighten the fuel injection pump mounting nuts. 
Torque Value: 43 n.m [32 ft-lb ]
 
Install the injection pump support bracket. Finger-tighten all capscrews before final tightening.
 
Tighten the brackets in the following sequence:
  1. Bracket-to-fuel pump capscrews
  2. Brace-to-block capscrews
  3. Bracket-to-fuel pump brace capscrews.
10 mm
Tighten all capscrews on the support bracket.
Torque Value: 24 n.m [212 in-lb ]
 
22 mm
Tighten the pump driveshaft retaining nut.
Torque Value: 170 n.m [125 ft-lb ]
 
Install the crankcase breather. 
 
17 mm
Install the low-pressure fuel lines.
 
17 mm
Install the fuel Inlet.
 
17 mm
Install the fuel return lines.
 
19 mm
Install the high-pressure line at the fuel pump.
 
19 mm
Install a high-pressure line at the cylinder head.
Connect the 9-pin connector to the VP44 fuel pump.
 
Connect the battery cables, negative (-) cable last.
 
Vent all air from the fuel system, if needed.