Injectors Videos

This COMMON Item Helps You Install Injector Nozzles At Home Like A Pro

Wade:
Hey, guys. I've got Lynn here from Dynamite Diesel today. And what he's going to do is he's going to show us how to install nozzles on an injector, correct way to do it. And the injector that we're using today is going to be a 6.7 Dodge injector. So going to go through all of that. But I really want to start out with... I think one of the main questions that we get here at Thoroughbred all the time is, "Should I do nozzles or should I do full injectors?" And I know there's a lot that goes into that and I want to let you talk on that.

Lenny:
Yeah. So, properly, if you've got a very low mileage truck, doing a set of nozzles works out great. We don't sell the really big nozzles without asking, or mandating really, that you send in your injector bodies. We install the nozzles on your bodies when we recalibrate them. When you're going to change flow by that much, we want to be really sure that you're not going to hurt the motor. So we do sell the smaller nozzles, like this set that I brought out. Bear in mind, I jumped on an airplane, came out here, brought the bare minimum tools. I'm going to borrow your torque wrench, your 15 millimeter socket. I've got nozzles. Inside the nozzles comes this little packet of grease and the six new copper washers to seal the injector as you go back in the motor with it.

Lenny:
And the grease is there to glue that copper onto the injector body so when you're dropping it down in the motor it doesn't fall off, you don't lose it. And now, of course, on the initial startup, that grease is going to melt away, but the copper is already in the spot, you crushed it, we're good.

Lenny:
And then, also brought me a toothpick. Toothpick is really cool. It's a great tool. You may have one of these in your kitchen cabinet you didn't know was a tool, but here. So inside this injector, which I've already cracked this nozzle nut free, there is a little calibration shim. And that calibration shim is... We've got them in about 100 different thicknesses. It's critical that that calibration shim, which is called DNH, stays with that injector.

Lenny:
So, I'm going to do this just right over the top because I don't want to lose anything here. Now, that calibration shim, hopefully the camera can see that, but there's my sleeve, old nozzle, here's my calibration shim. And here's where my tool comes in. The reason this toothpick works out nice because it's non-magnetic and that shim is so dang small and so light, if you try and use a regular pick, it creates magnetism to it and it follows you around. So I like these little toothpicks just for that reason.

Wade:
And you don't want it magnetized in the assembly.

Lenny:
Correct. So, now that I've got the injector torn apart, this sleeve goes back into the injector. Just for giggles, just to show everybody what we're dealing with here, just in case they actually have a problem. You don't need to do this, every single time change a nozzle, but I'm going to show everybody what we're dealing with. We've got a calibration shim. It really controls a pilot and idle that sets preload on this spring. So at the lower throttle settings, this one is responsible for how quickly the injector can open and, like I say, just the throttle settings.

Wade:
Yeah.

Lenny:
So, spring, DNH sleeve. Now my DNH shim, again, these come in 100 different thicknesses. It stays with this body unless you send in your injectors. And if you send your injectors in, we may move these things around and calibrate it proper. But since we don't have that ability here at the shop or at home, we're just going to make sure that it goes back in the exact same injector it came from. I'm going to make sure that DNH lays in there nice and flat. Take out one of my brand new nozzles. Like I say, these nozzles are made per set. We're going to measure these in liters of air per minute and we will tell you what the percentage over is, what the expected horsepower output is, and you just buy them based off that.

Wade:
Show them the feed hole in the nozzle there and how that is.

Lenny:
So, actually there's a couple of things we probably should talk about. This needle valve that I'm trying to get out of here, the needle valve is machined and lapped to that nozzle. This is specific to... These two parts are married together forever. This is measured within five microns of an inch and it fits and it's lapped to that exact nozzle. If you have a bag of these things that have been miscellaneously put into a bag and now they're all slopped around, don't try and run that set. It's not going to work out right. Please send those in. We can try and do that for you. But, yeah.

Lenny:
So the feed hole where fluid goes into is right there. As the needle valve goes to lift, so that would be a massive amount of lift. This lift is actually dictated by that little DNA shim. So the thinner the shim, the more lift we're going to get. And the more lift we get, the more fluid can fall underneath the needle valve as it goes and is cycling through. So, back to closure. Make sure that your surface, all of this needs to be dead clean, absolute spotlessly clean. Nozzle back on too.

Wade:
And does that feed hole have to line up to any particular feed hole on the body.

Lenny:
Good question. So the alignment dowels that were there, those aren't exactly 180 degrees opposite. So this thing can only be properly assembled in one direction. So if you try and switch to 180 off, the nozzle's going to sit just offset and nothing's going to line up.

Wade:
Okay.

Lenny:
So, nozzle nut. Now guys, if you're doing this at home, please be careful and make sure you're doing this in a very clean environment. The tool that we've got here in this vice, we send these out with injector nozzles so that way anybody with any vice at home can actually do this job. The V-shape that's cut into this tool is an indicator that this is for a 6.7 liter body and not a 5.9 liter body. I saw that you had one laying here. It does not have that V-shape cut in it. This, if you notice, this is a little bit narrower right here than it is right here.

Wade:
Yeah.

Lenny:
And the 5.9 body is a little bit thinner right there. So, 5.9 tool will not work for a 6.7. Won't fit. So that's why we've got a couple of different looking tools. Now that we've got everything assembled, handy dandy torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, please don't do this job. This doesn't need to be good and tight, this needs to be 40 pound feet. And I hate to say you shouldn't be doing this, but if you don't have a torque wrench, you really shouldn't be doing this.

Wade:
Yeah. I was going to say, we don't get to use our German torque specs here.

Lenny:
No, we can't use Good-N-Tight. So, next on the hit would be my handy dandy bag of grease and my copper washers.

Wade:
And again, the grease is just to hold the copper on.

Lenny:
That is all. So, copper on too. Now, back of the shop I've got a tool that would help me and it would install this washer quite nice and easy. But if I'm careful, I can do it just like this, by pressing only on the copper part and not the nozzle. And there we go, we're coming on. So you can see that copper washer has got a lot of friction, and that's to make sure that it does not. We're about halfway there so far. Got nozzle install, done, done. I'm going to pull this copper washer back off and take my core injector body and throw the core nozzle back on it.

Wade:
That's it.

Lenny:
But instructional video on how to do your nozzle at home.

Wade:
That's it.

Lenny:
All right.

Wade:
Thanks for watching, guys.

Haze During Idle Diagnosis | Leaking Injector Nozzle - 01-04 Duramax

Wade:
2001 to 2004 Chevrolet LB7 Duramax motors. You saw the haze at idle there that we showed you in the opening to this video. This is one of the most common jobs that we do here at the shop is injector replacements on Duramax. It's one of the most common failures that we deal with from customers coming in on the website too, as well by an injector. So we're going to talk to you a little bit today about what we see and how we diagnose it here in the shop and how we attack here in the shop and what you can do on your end if you've got a LB7 that's hazing at idle just a little bit.

Wade:
First off, I want to say if you've got this problem, if your truck's hazing at idle, you need to address it immediately. So many people don't address it and it can actually cost you an engine. You can cylinder wash a motor if you let it go on too long, especially if you're pulling a gooseneck or something, you try to go out and pull a big load with this truck while you're having this problem, while you've got an injection, it's out of balance, it can also cost you an engine. We see that a lot, too.

Wade:
So what we're going to do is we're going to show you what we look for when we're diagnosing these trucks other than just a haze at idle. Haze at idol tells us that we've got an injector that's leaking. More specifically, we've got one of the nozzles on one of the injectors leaking. You'll hear and you'll read on some of the forums and stuff and you'll talk about, you'll hear them talking about balance rates, what are my balance rates for my injectors? But we're going to show you a lot of today's tuners, you can look at your balance rates, your EFILive, and I'm not going to quote them all because this video has to apply to several different years.

Wade:
So a lot of the tuners, you can actually look at your balance rates. If you can't get a... If you don't have a tuner on the truck and you want to do it, if you can get your hands on a snap-on SOLUS or something like that, Tech 2, you can look at balance rates. So let's bring it in here. Let's show you what the specification is for the balance rates. Well, your balance rates when the truck is in park and in idle, the specification is plus or minus four. Now you can see these balance rates right here. This balance rate for injection number two is a negative seven, so that is out of specification.

Wade:
Injector number six is 5.3, that's out of specification. Now you get to this, this is in fuel data two, and actually I know some of the tuners you have to go to fuel data two to get that. Now when an injector is showing a negative value, that means that that cylinder, that injector is trying, the FICM is trying to add fuel to that injector to balance out the cylinder. When you've got a positive number, it's trying to cut fuel back. So that's just kind of give you a little knowledge of what the balance rates are. So we've got two injectors, so two of our eight injectors are bad in this truck. Now with this job, the only way that I would accept this job in the shop is if the customer let me put all eight injectors in it. And that's not us trying to upsale the customer, that's what needs to be done to the truck.

Wade:
All eight injectors need to be put in this truck. That way you balance out the fuel system. You've got a good clean slate to start back with. Now, if I have a customer that can't afford that, we won't go in and attack injectors one at a time. What we'll do is if the problem is on one side of the motor, we may attack one side. We don't even like to do that. So to be honest with you, I'd quote that job site injectors or we probably wouldn't take it. But just for your Shade Tree guys or you guys that are going to attempt it at home. If you're going after it, at least try to do all the injectors on the sides. You've got a problem on both sides.

Wade:
Well, then again, you're back in to put an eight in it. So that gives you an idea on LB7 injectors, what we're looking for. One of the biggest things that you also want to look for in this, if you've got a haze at idol, or you've got any other problems or think that you've got to fueling issue, hard starts or anything of that nature, fuel knock, you always want to check the oil on these trucks. LB7s are very bad about cracking injector bodies, which will actually leak down into the crankcase, overfill the truck with... Overfill the engine with diesel fuel.

Wade:
It'll actually come out the blow-by and you'll be running on straight diesel fuel in your crankcase. So that's not a good situation either. So this is a very violent, it's a very violent failure on these trucks. It's definitely something that's very real that needs to be addressed. Do not take it lightly. Don't try to skimp it along until you can afford to do it or whatever. Address it as it comes. And that way you can save your truck and possibly save yourself an engine. If you need anything, let us know.

Common Rail Dodge Injector Discussion | Solve No Start Issues

Wade:
'03 to '07 Dodge's, 59s, we're going to talk just a little bit about injector problems. One of the most common calls that we get from customers are customers that are having to start their trucks on the ether. And we're going to talk a little bit about that today. So first off, we don't want you starting your trucks with ether, but we're going to talk a little bit about why it happens. So what traditionally will happen with common rail truck, if one of the injectors has a high leak back value or a high return value, it's going to keep the truck from being able to build up enough rail pressure for the truck to start. Now that is a very, very common condition, especially with fuel quality being the way that it is today. We're going to show you how you diagnose that.

Wade:
Now, the first thing that you're going to want to do, and we're going to speak on '03 to '07 Dodge's in this video, so the first thing that you're going to want to do is you're going to want to verify that you've got good lift pump pressure. So the way you do that, just kind of flying by the seat of your pants, go up to the CP3 pump, make sure that you've got good lift pump pressure there. Hopefully you're monitoring it with some sort of a gauge. Now, the second thing that you're going to want to do is you're going to want to check the truck for codes. Going to want to make sure there's nothing else that's keeping your truck from starting. So lift pump, check. We've got good lift pump pressure, we know the truck doesn't have any codes in it. We still have a no-start condition.

Wade:
Then we're going to want to check to see what our actual and commanded fuel rail pressure is now. Realizing that everybody doesn't have a scanner, but if you have access to the scanner, we're going to show you what you're looking for here. With more and more tuners hooking into the OBD2 port now and you being able to monitor things, monitor different parameters and different PIDs inside the engine, this gives you the ability to diagnose what's going on for your trucks. The data displays that these modules give you help you to diagnose your trucks, so your edge insights, and whatnot. So Rugo day display, this is on our, you know, our Solus that we keep here in the shop and we're going to use, now we're going to show you what's the difference between actual and commanded fuel rail pressure is. So these are the two values that we've got. We're looking for 5802 cranking to get this truck to start. We'll see what it's going to make cranking.

Wade:
So the most we're able to get out of it cranking is about a thousand PSI. The reason why that happens and why the crank and speed that the truck turns at doesn't... With the RPM that the truck cranks at, with having an injector that has a high leak down or has a high leak back or high return rate, at that speed, it will not let the truck build up the rail pressure for the truck. Now why do you hit it with either and it starts, because that increases the cranking speed and that helps it to overcome that little bit of difference between RPM and fuel pressure that the rail needs to make the truck start. So, that's another good calm one. So, you know, the way you attack that to make sure 100% that it's an injector is this little block off tool.

Wade:
This little block off tool, you can pick these up at any Dodge dealership. It's a Mopar 9011. I think it's actually made by Miller. Let me show you how this works. So when looking for leak for for a high return rate, what we would do if you were wanting to single in on trying to figure out what injector was exactly your problem, you would actually just go ahead and remove the line and place this cap off tool on the line and then try to start the truck. Now, a lot of people ask us, well if I shut the injector down with my scan tool, won't that do the same thing? That will not do the same thing. You're still going to have fuel delivery to the injector. So the leak down or the return rate is still going to be the same and it's not going to let the truck build up the rail pressure to start.

Wade:
So again, this cap off tool is what you need. You can get it from any dealership, your Dodge dealership. Pick one up and that will be able to help you to identify which injector is going to be your problem. Now, we obviously always suggest that you put all six injectors in the truck, but if you're in a financial situation that you can't put all six in the truck and you want to attack this one injector at a time, this will help you. Also, if you've got a couple of injectors with a high return rate, you may have to purchase multiple block off tools. So that gives you a good idea on how to identify which one of your injectors has a high return rate and keeping your truck from starting. And again, remember the one thing that you can take from this video, do not start your truck with ether.

98-02 Dodge Cummins Injectors Install

Dennis:
All right. We're here today going to show an install video on injector install on a 98-02 Dodge. We got our expert mechanic Steven will be here with us. First steps are going to be to take the intake horn off, you got 10 millimeter bolts on top of that. You got actually four that hold the intake horn on and then you've got one that holds the dipstick tube. Just take those out. Then you've got an 11 millimeter that holds the bellow there to the intake horn. Just pull that off, set it to the side. Next thing we do is right here in front we've got three 15 millimeter bolts that takes the throttle position and sensor out. Then you've got your 15 millimeter bolts that take hold the valve cover on. Those are your three first steps in starting this process.

Dennis:
All right on this install, we've already removed the intake horn. We've already removed the throttle position sensor, removed the first four bolts on the valve cover. The fifth bolt is loose, but we leave it in before we take the valve cover off. Steven's going to go ahead and show you back in the back right here you'll see the rubber line. We bend that down and slide the intake up, over top of that is the easiest way to do it leaving that fifth bolt in. It's not the easiest thing in the world. It's a little hustle getting that thing off but there you have it.

Dennis:
So now we're down to our valves and our injectors and we'll continue steps the right. Next step in the process is getting the injector lines off, you got three hold down bolts that are 10 millimeters. The hold down bolts are there, there and back in the back.

Steven:
Here.

Dennis:
You actually, four hold down bolts, three quarter inch wrench takes the injector lines loose from the head and then three quarter inch stubby takes the lines loose from the back of the injection pumps, it's the easiest way to do it. Take all those loose. We take the one, two and four off, leave it in a group, do not separate it, makes it a whole lot easier going back if you take them all off together. Then the second three will come off, three, five and six will come off in a group and leave those together also.

Dennis:
These curved lines, it's a whole lot easier if you just leave them together. After you get your fuel lines off, the next step in the process is taking the injector hold down off, the injector hold down is right here. There's actually two eight millimeter bolts. The one in the back closest to the rocker arms. We just loosen that up. The hole down's actually slotted, so if you loosen that one up and take the back bolt completely out, the rocker arm will actually just slide out. I'll show you a picture of the rocker arm, soon as Steven gets it out there.

Dennis:
So yeah, it does have a slot in it where his thumb is. Move your thumb there, Steven, slot there and that's where the one eight millimeter slides in. You can take them out that way if you don't want to adjust your valves. Normally speaking, when we do inject our installs, we always take the exhaust rocker arm off that lets you get down in there real easy. The exhaust rocker arms always this second rocker arm right here on each one going back, makes it real easy getting to the hold down bolts at that point.

Dennis:
So we'll take those off. We're actually going to take all the rocker arms loose, so we can readjust the valves and do a compression check on this motor also. Two other quick notes that I didn't mention that we always do. We always stuff rags down in the intake. Always put a rag over top of the inner cooler hose and if you take the rocker arms off like we're going to, always keep those in order and put them back on the exact same cylinder that you took it off in everything, especially on a motor that's already been broken, everything's made it up. So we want to put those back on exactly like we take them off. Here we got Steven taking the exhaust rocker arms off. That's actually a 10 millimeter nut that's on the top of it, real simple to do. All you do is just take the nut loose and then the rocker arm will simply pull straight up off of it.

Dennis:
All right. We've gotten all the exhaust rocker arms taken off. We've also got the injector hold down taken off on each injector. We're getting ready to pull the injector out. Two things you've got to do. You've got to pull this connector tube, that slides right there out. How we do that is if you don't have the special tool, or can't get your hands on it. You can take a screwdriver. You just got to be real careful not to screw the threads up. We use a snap-on part CJ144 it's a little tool like that, Steven will show you how it screws on there, and then you just simply take a little lady finger or something and the tubes will pop right out.

Dennis:
And we go ahead and take the tubes all the way out, clean them off, make sure the ends look good before we go back. When you go to take the injector out, you can actually, what we use is a valve cover bolt, we'll actually screw right into the top of that injector. And then we take a pair of bent needle nose pliers and just pop the injector straight up out. And Steven's going to show you how to do that.

Dennis:
See the valve cover bolts sticking up out there. Just pry up on it and the injector will pop right out and pull the injector up there Steven.

Steven:
Make sure that it has.

Dennis:
Yeah, well I'll always make sure it has the copper O ring on the bottom of them. You do not want to put two Copper O Rings on there. When we show you the new injectors, they always come with a new copper O ring also. All right, I thought I'd give you a quick shot of the injectors that we're getting ready to clip back in and these are actual just stocked Bosch injectors. You see the nice pretty Bosch yellow box. You want to make sure it's got the brand new copper O ring. On the bottom of it you can see brand new nozzles. This is actually a complete brand new injector and not rebuilt or anything starting solid injectors. All right Steven's got the injector and the tube. When you go back with these, you want to put a little bit of lubricant around your O ring. Something like Vaseline is what we usually use. We also want to put the injector back down in the hole with the indented portion right there.

Dennis:
That's the portion where your fuel tube slides into. You will put that down pointing over towards where the fuel tube slides in. Before you tighten anything down, you have to make sure that fuel tube sitting tight in that port before you start cramping those down. We'll do that and then I'll give you the torque specs on what to torque all of these steps. He's put the injector back down in the hole. He's pushing the tube in right now. Usually you'll feel it snap back into place where the O rings on there, and it should be just about flush with the outside of the head right there.

Dennis:
Once you've got that in place, then we're going to put the rocker arm back on and torque everything. All right, Steven's put the injector down in the hole, making sure that the tube binds up. How we normally install the injectors is we first torque them down to about 44 inch pounds just to let the injector seat into the hole properly. We then back that back off, make sure the feed tube slides in. You want to feel a snap or a pop when the feed tube actually slides into the groove and seats itself and it should be about flush with the outside, maybe indented just a little bit with the outside of the head there. That'll let you know that that is seated properly. Then we're going to put the rocker arms back on, the hold down bolts on the injectors, torque at 89 inch pounds.

Dennis:
The hold down or rocker bolt here actually torques at 27 foot pounds. Now that we've got our injectors in, we're pretty much done. We've got our injectors in, our valves last, everything accomplished here. All you have to do now is just do actually the opposite of the install, the removal procedures. You can go ahead and put your valve cover on, put your injector lines back on, hook everything up, and then we're going to get to the restart or bleeding procedures to get the fuel back up into the injectors. All we do is crank the number one, number three and number four cylinders, crank it over until we get fuel coming out of any of those.

Dennis:
Once we see fuel coming out of those, we close that cylinder off. We crank it again until we get fuel coming out of each of the other two cylinders that's left, closing those off. As soon as we see fuel, usually by the time you get fuel coming barely starting to come out of the third cylinder, it'll be ready to start. So go ahead and close it off when you see any fuel at all. And she'll fire right up for you.

Injector Install - 2004.5-2007 Common Rail Dodge Cummins

Wade:
All right, we're doing a common rail injector install for an '06 Dodge today. Customers complain of high EGTs. A truck had over a 100,000 miles on it, so we've probably got some ball seat erosion issues, so we're going to put brand new Robert Bosch injectors in. We're going to go through the steps to take out and re-install common rail injectors.

Wade:
We're going to start with first step in the entire process, which is removing the fuel rail. Here at Thoroughbred we remove the fuel rail in one complete pack, we don't remove any lines or anything from the fuel rail itself, we'll actually take it all out in one pack. This is the head size of the injectors, at the actual head in the injector. You just loosen these up, remove them from the injectors, you've got hold down clamps here all the way down the rail holding it to the intake manifold.

Wade:
Then there's three bolts here, here, and here that hold the rail itself to the head. Remove the fuel feed line coming from the CP3, it's on the bottom side of this, the overflow valve, undo your electrical connectors and this will come out in one shot off the head.

Wade:
Then once we're at the head, we need to remove the feed tubes. At each feed tube on the common rail head there's a retaining nut that holds the feed tube in, that's this here. And then you have the feed tube itself, which is here, and we'll show you how to remove it. To remove the feed tubes we use a Snap-On J149, and you can get from any Snap-On dealer. Just screw that onto the feed tube like so, off just a little bit, and then just simply use a pry bar or a screwdriver and pry like that. There we go voila. The feed tubes come right out.

Wade:
The feed tubes have got two ball bearings on them. There's a channel cut in the head so I won't re-installation, what we do is we'll just line that up by turning the feed tube side to side, now let's find our groove, and then push feed tube back inside the head. All right.

Wade:
Next we're going to go for the valve cover. Once we have the valve cover off, we'll show you guys where we're at. The next step in common rail injector removal is taking off the valve cover gasket. The [inaudible 00:02:31] Cummins valve cover gasket is an integrated circuit, it's got all the wires running through it, going to each individual injector, two nuts on top of the injector, we'll do that for all six injectors, and then we're going to remove the valve cover gasket and go for the exhaust rocker arms, which is the longer of the two rocker arms. We'll remove those and that'll give us access to our injectors.

Wade:
All right, we've got our exhaust rocker arms off now. We're ready to remove the injectors. To remove the injectors, we take the valve bridge off each exhaust valve. Then you have two bolts, here and here, metric eights and we're going to remove those, and then from this side of the injector we'll get a pries tool underneath of here, right at the injector hold down here, and use that to pries the injector out of the bore. Do that for all six cylinders.

Wade:
These are our brand new Robert Bosch 505 injectors. We call them a 505 the Bosch number is 0986435505 for the 04 and a half to 0759s with the 325 horsepower motor in it. Before we install these, we'll put a little bit of petroleum jelly around this O-ring right here, and then we'll go ahead and place them in the head.

Wade:
All right, putting the injectors in the head, one of the biggest things that you want to do is make sure that you've got the feed hole of the injector pointed towards where the feed tube is going into the head, which will be the driver's side. We'll take the injector, we've got our petroleum jelly on it, ready to go in the bore, make sure nothing's in the bore of the feed hole, and we'll orient it towards that feed tube on the head. Okay, we'll get her seated like this, top of the head the electronics, take a rag, double it over so you've got a good soft cushion and just simply push, it'll click like that, just that easily, and the injector is in. One of the easiest ways to know whether you've got the injector seated, and seated right as you can go back and put your feed tubes back in the head, and you can wiggle the injector and if the feet tube is in there right when you wiggle it, you won't have very much play at all, just a little bit, and you'll also see the feed tubes wiggle.

Wade:
We're going to put our other six injectors in, and then we're going to put the feed tubes in, and show you what we're talking about there.

Wade:
All right, we've got our injectors back in, haven't put our bolts in yet because we want to show you how we do on the feed tubes here. With the feed tubes again, you want to have the ball bearings up and they'll go in the groove here in the head, and when you start them in the head you can kind of like turn them left to right just like this right here, and that lets you show that you got the bearing in the groove. That's right there. Just take a blunt end of any tool here, we go back with the same tool that we actually remove it just to protect the threads on it. Feed it on a couple, two or three turns and pop the feed tube back in. Remove the installation tool or the removable tool. Okay.

Wade:
Now, here's the true test to see whether you've gotten the injectors and the feed tubes lined up here. All right, we're going to take the head of the injector and move it, and we should see movement out of this feed tube right here. All right, work the injector back and forth, feed tubes moving, so we've got positive engagement of the feed tube into the injector. We'll put our nuts back on here and tighten everything back down, valve bridges, the exhaust valves, run the overhead back on the motor, check for valve clearance, and we're right there where we want to be. We'll be putting the valve cover back on, and putting all the electronics back on. Make sure you run your torques on everything here, injector hold down bolts, the rocker arm bolts. Make sure you go back through your overhead on the motor. Check your intake in your exhaust valve clearances, and that's going to be it. Installation is reverse of removal.

Dodge Common Rail Injector Install

Wade:
Common rail injection installation is something that I wanted to revisit today. We have a lot of problems arise with people not installing injectors correctly and that have problems with the feed tube alignment to the injector and torque values and whatnot, so we're going to go back through that. We've already done an installation of a complete install of a common rail injectors on your 5.9, but what we wanted to do is we wanted to focus on installing the injectors themselves individually, so I'm not going to hit on the rest of the install. I want to go through this and show you the correct way to align the feed tubes and the correct torquing procedures for installation.

Wade:
So if you purchase new injectors from us, they'll come with a cap on either end of the injector for the nozzle and both covering the solenoid. Now this plastic cap that actually covers the solenoid, not only does it protect it in shipping, but it's also to help you with installation. So we're going to install the injector right now.

Wade:
First off, you want to install your injector first and you're going to want to lubricate your O-ring on the injector. We just use petroleum jelly. Okay, and then you'll want to remove the cap off of the nozzle and give just a little bit of grease on it as well, and that's to hold the copper compression washer on the injector. Now you notice we're going to leave this plastic cap on the end of the injector. This is actually to help you to install so you don't hurt the solenoid when you're installing the injector.

Wade:
So again, like we covered in our first video, you want the feed hole for the injector, you want this towards the driver's side of the truck where the nozzle will be able to engage it. So we're going to put the injector in now with the alignment hole towards the driver's side of the truck. Okay, now here's where your cap comes into play. When you leave this cap on the injector, when you go to push it into the bore, once you get it started just take the palm of your hand and push the injector straight down and it should click. That's what the cap is actually for, and to protect the silenoid. So we're going to leave the cap on there while we're putting our feed tube in.

Wade:
Now our feed tube, normally when we do an installation here at the shop, we usually go back with all new feed tubes. Okay? If there's any question of the condition of the feed tube, be it in the O-ring or the end of the feed tube where it engages the injector, always replace the feed tube. More problems in feed tubes and feed tube alignment to the injector than there is anything else in this whole job.

Wade:
So we're going to give the O-ring a light coat of grease. Now we're going to install it in the injector. Now you have these balls on the feed tube, and these are meant to go up. There's a channel cut for those in the head. Okay, now when installing these, we actually use a tool that goes over the thread of the feed tube, and that's to keep you from damaging the thread of the feed tube. We're just going to screw that on a few turns, pop our feed tube in and you can hear it pop.

Wade:
Okay, now what we're going to do to make sure that we are properly engaged into the injector is we're just going to work the injector back and forth here and make sure that we see the feed tube moving. That means that we are engaged in the injector correctly.

Wade:
Once we've installed our injector, what we're going to do is we're going to put our injector hold down bolts in, and we're not tightening these, we're just going to put them in hand tight. Okay, these are metric 10 bolts, and again we're not snugging these down, we're just putting them in here a couple of turns.

Wade:
All right, we've got our injector in and our feed tube aligned here. Okay, what we're going to do now is we're going to put all of our retainers on here. Okay, we're going to start with our two inject hold down bolts. These are both metric eight bolts, and we're not tightening these at all, we're just putting them in a couple of turns here just to hold the injector in line, and also so we don't lose the bolts. And now our feed tube hold down nut, which is a metric 24, we start this. Okay, and now we're ready for our torque sequence.

Wade:
Okay, so again, what is so critically important here is we know for 100% positive that we have the feed tube in line with the injector feed hole. Okay, so we're going to do our first torque value here and it's going to be on our feed tube. Okay, our feed tube, our initial torque is going to be about 12 foot pounds, and what this is going to do is this is going to set our feed tube into our injector bore. Now again, we don't have our injector tight, only hand tight, and we're going to start our feed tube first. This is going to be our first tightening sequence. So 24 metric for the feed tube retaining nut. This is going to be our first torque, 12 foot pounds. Okay, there's that.

Wade:
Now we're going to go to our hold downs. Now our hold downs, we're going to torque these. We're going to alternate between the two. We're going to go 90 degrees at a time with each one and we're going to take the injector hold down to 89 inch pounds. Now working around the injector, you want to be very conscious around your solenoid studs. You want to make sure ... I leave the cap on them just to protect the solenoid. That's a very good practice. I try to work in about 90 degree turns on this and I alternate between the two. And again, we're taking this to 89 inch pounds.

Wade:
This is an important torque, so if you never had your torque ratchet checked or verified before you do this job, always make sure that you do that. Okay, that's our injector hold downs. Again, that torque value, that's a onetime torque at 89 inch pounds.

Wade:
Now we're coming back out to the feed tubes. This is our final torque on our feed tubes and for the 5.9 common rail your final torque value is 34 foot pounds. Okay, 24 metric here on the feed tubes and we simply take that to 34 foot pounds, and that is the correct way to torque down the common rail injector on the 5.9 Cummins and remove my cap. That has your feed tube set, your injectors torqued down, and everything's perfect. Okay?

Wade:
Now we're going to go back with our rocker arm. Our torque value for our rocker arm for on the exhaust side is going to be 27 foot pounds. You can do that torque in two steps if you'd like. If you like to do 12 and then take it to 27, or take a straight to 27, then we'll run rack on or we'll run top side and check our valve clearances. Again, we covered that in the other video, and our wiring harness. Now, I want to stress this again. This is a very, very important torque value. When we go back to put our wiring harness on our injector, our torque value for this is 13 inch pounds, which is a very, very, very light torque. Why is that important? A couple reasons. If you over-torque these, what you're going to do is you're actually going to break the studs off in the solenoid. That is a non-warranty situation. It will not be covered under warranty by any of our fuel shop distributors that you'll deal with. Industrial injection DDP, for sure not going to cover a broken stood under warranty that's been over-torqued.

Wade:
Now further into that stretching of the studs, in this cylinoid, if you over torque this if you don't break it and you overstretch it, you're you're going to change the resistance of the contact inside of the solenoid and the electronic signal is not going to be the same. So if you overstretch it, if you have a warranty situation with the injector, if they find these studs to be stretched, that'll be a non-warranty item as well.

Wade:
So again, our rocker arm's on 27 foot pounds. We'll put a rocker box on and our wiring harness. Take these solenoid nuts, 13 inch pounds, and we should have a good install here.

What is Common Rail Fuel Injection?

Wade:
Today, we're going to give you a redneck definition of common rail. This piece of art that you see here that is a hodgepodge of several different components, of several different platforms of common rail light duty diesels, is a masterpiece that is going to be a teaching tool for you as we go through this fantastic journey of fuel injection. Let's begin. I found myself, when I say common rail to people, when talking about your platforms of trucks, if a Dodge customer calls and he's not sure if he's got an O2 or O3, I'll always say, "Well, is it common rail?" Sometimes that's where I'll lose them. So let's go into what is common rail, once you have identified whether you've got a common rail or not. So the first thing in the circuit, in the common rail circuit, other than your fuel tank ... Let's cut all that part out.

Wade:
You guys are smart enough to know that there's a fuel tank. It's got fuel in it. The fuel gets to the CP3 pump, but let's talk about the CP3 pump. CP3 pump, it is a dumb pump. It is an injection pump, but is a dumb pump. Here's what the CP3 does, fuel into the CP3, the CP3 has a metering valve on it called an FCA or fuel control actuator. Some people call it an Mprop. The metering valve on the CP3, it regulates the fuel flow internal to the CP3, which builds the pressure. That pressurized and that volume of fuel goes to the rail, common rail. The rail is the common collection system where the fuel is delivered to the injectors. The fuel is here and it is going through each individual port at the specified pressure that is coming out of the CP3, and it is always at the injectors.

Wade:
The injectors are the business end of this, but we're not to the injectors yet. The rail itself has a couple of key components. It has got a fuel pressure sensor, always that is inside of the rail or that is in an injunction block that is tied to the system itself. You also have a fuel pressure relief valve or cascade valve, some people call them, that will allow the overpressure ... If the fuel pressure gets too high, it will allow the excess fuel to dump off back to the tank. Then the pressurized fuel is delivered to the injectors. The injectors receive a signal from the FICUM or for the ECM that create the combustion event that goes into the cylinders. The fuel sprays in, all the magic happens. That's what makes the car go down the road. The injectors are the brain or are the brains of the operation. The CP3 is the brawn of the operation.

Wade:
Now, common rail injection, why is it here? Common rail injection ... and this is a generalization that we're speaking in, only the big three light duty platforms. Common rail injection is here because it is cleaner and it is more efficient. It works from a couple thousand PSI on start up to upwards of above 20,000 PSI. A full power regiment that gives you better atomization of the fuel, which is going to give you a cleaner burn and is going to give you a more efficient vehicle. You're going to be able to pass all those EPA standards and tiers and all the stuff that you really don't want to talk about today. So this hodgepodge of parts, we can go into this. This is a couple of components from several different trucks. This is actually a real pressure sensor from a 6.7 Dodge.

Wade:
It's got an LB7 injector here from the [inaudible 00:03:28], 5.9 rail. I don't know what the lines are off of. The CP3 is also off of a 5.9. This rail that I brought up for another demonstration component is off of an LB7. You Duramax guys are going to know that your FP, your fuel pressure relief valve is in the back of the rail. Some of the rails will have the pressure sensor actually on the Duramax rails. The Fords are completely different. Fords from 08 and up is common rail. All of the components are pretty well the same. They may look different to you. Some of the lighter model Fords are Piezo injections, and we may get into that and do another video, but I just wanted to give you a good overview of what is common rail today.

Wade:
I'm also going to help you with your acronyms. When you're speaking to someone in fuel systems or common rail is where you're going to see a lot of this. You're going to see this everywhere in fuel. Fuel, when people are speaking in fuel terminology, you will always see talking in pressure, most fuel guys will give it to you in bar. They'll say it's 1800 bar. One bar equals 14.5 PSI for us rednecks. Now, you are going to have some of your tuners that are going to display your fuel pressure at the railing, kPa. What is kPa? One kPa, kilopascal, is 0.145 PSI. So that gives you ammunition to have a good educated conversation with somebody about fuel, common rail, fuel injection if you so choose to. So I hope this video was helpful for you guys. If you've got any questions on common rail or anything else, please give us a call. Thank you.